Where:295 Bay St Port Melbourne

When: Weekdays 7am-3pm, Weekends 8am-3pm

Contact: (03) 9077 3813

Vego :)

Avocado, lime and goat’s cheese on Turkish bread, topped with a soft poached egg ($14)

Port Melbourne is a strange sort of place; Lycra-swathed cyclists, dogs, and lots of affluent white people, When I was strolling up Bay Street a mother called out, “Sienna and Beau get out of the way!” as her children rode their bikes down the footpath, their glossy Labrador in tow.

Stereotypes aside, there are some good eats to be had in Port Melbourne. Balderdash for example, might be somewhere you’ve heard of as it’s been a local favourite for some time and for good reason; it’s good. Heading in for a spot of brunch on a weekend, you might have to sit outside as we did, because it gets busy. Most impressive are their range of coffee systems; featuring cold drip and pour-over as well as espresso. Turns out I first ordered a weak Earl Grey tea which arrived in a tiny pot with enough leaves to have poisoned me. Generous; maybe, drinkable; no and weak; certainly not. I asked for some hot water to weaken my tea and it arrived in a cappuccino cup; exponentially difficult to pour from. When the tea still showed very little signs of weakening I resorted to simply scooping the leaves out, to my dining company’s horror I counted five spoonfuls of leaves. The remaining water was still too concentrated to drink. This little incident aside, the cappuccino I ordered afterwards was excellent. 

For my tummy I ordered the Avocado, lime and goat’s cheese on Turkish bread, topped with a soft poached egg ($14). I was delighted with the results. The creamy goat’s cheese was just a genius combination with the avocado and the lime was infused throughout but it did come with a wedge for you to squeeze over as well. The poached egg was perfect and the whole dish came artfully drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic. I can’t even begin to believe how fantastic things might get if you were to add the bacon (17.50).

Sitting outside on the benches was OK in the sunshine but had it been miserable, the footpath and passing traffic may well have soured the deal. I’d gladly return and wait for a seat inside next time. And of course, avoid ordering a tea.

Food: 4.5/5

Service 2/5

Ambiance: 2/5 (when seated outside)

Where: 359 Napier St Fitzroy

When: Weekdays 7.30-4.30, Weekends 8-4.30

Contact: (03) 9417 2274

Licensed

Cash Only

Little Ici is a well loved favourite in Fitzroy, and it’s easy to see why. While undoubtedly cool, the tiny café is not so edgy as to sacrifice comfort and functionality. The chairs are old and heavy; wood with leather seating pads. Parisian little lampshades jut out from the wood-panelled walls and provide pockets of warm lighting. It’s a cosy sort of place and the menu offers a well-balanced selection ranging from the comforting to the sophisticated, with plenty of exciting vegetarian options. The music is volume-appropriate and pretty good too; I was treated to Bowie while I ate my lunch.

I ordered a latte ($3.50) and a Worker’s Bun: Fried egg, roaming bacon, tomato, vintage cheddar, spinach and tomato chilli jam ($10.50). Both arrived without too much wait which was fantastic considering the ANZAC day crowds. The latte looked a little pale but actually had enough kick, and a complex palate. It’s hard to find Fair Trade coffee this good. When the Worker’s Bun arrived I sussed out the bread first, like I always do. It passed with flying colours; fluffy, dense and fresh. Inside things were pretty good too with thick, richly flavoured bacon and lusciously smooth fresh spinach leaves. I didn’t notice the cheddar so much but there was a lot of tomato, and I kicked some of it out. The dressing was very creamy with a touch of mustard. Plenty of chilli jam too, which was heavily spiced with cumin. I’m not such a fan of cumin which dampened my bun-enthusiasm a little. Cumin sympathisers will however, not be disappointed.

I had a great time at Ici, and although service with a smile can fluctuate depending on which member of staff serves you, service was generally good and efficient. A little haven in Fitzroy with prices I can live with and quality I can get used to.

Worker’s Bun: Fried egg, roaming bacon, tomato, vintage cheddar, spinach and tomato chilli jam ($10.50)

Food: 4/5

Service: 3/5

Ambiance: 4/5

Where: 152 Kerr St Fitzroy

When: Weekdays 7am-10:30pm, Weekends 8am-10:30pm

Contact: (03) 9417 1212

CC & EFTPOS available

Fitzroyers may already be savvy to Backstreet Café which opened up on Kerr Street in January. Even if you’re not a local, you’re bound to hear all about it sooner or later, primarily because of the success of its big sister, Birdman Eating just around the corner. Being a big fan of Birdman (It took first place in Lunchosaurus’ Top 5 Melbourne Eats from last year) I was eager to try out Backstreet.

Walking past on Kerr Street, Backstreet’s frontage was not very distinctive and had I not known that the café answered to the same owners as Birdman I would’ve walked right past. The décor; daggy café chairs, wine racks, chalk boards and a noodling saxophone soundtrack give Backstreet a vibe indistinguishable from so many other places. Although I personally feel the design is nothing special, it is clear that it has been made to a high standard. The bathrooms for example, are more like suites with thick doors and enough space to have a small picnic on the floor, or perhaps more practically, change a baby.

On the menu there are some brief parallels with Birdman Eating such as the Boiled eggs with soldiers and a couple of Baked egg options too. However the real draw-card is the meaty options, and there are a lot of them. Downstairs there’s a cellar where all sorts of interesting meats are cured in-house. Adventurous diners will enjoy picking out something they’ve probably never had before, while if you’re a bit of a traditionalist you’ll be safe with the Golden Muffin; Backstreet breaky sausage, fried egg, scamorza and tomato sauce for $11.50. I was pleased to find that said muffin was tre sophisticated, for a muffin. The sausage (more like a delicious salty beef patty) was nestled amongst the perfectly balanced flavours of the stretchy scamorza and delicate tomato sauce. Most importantly the muffin itself was dense, soft and doughy. Egg McMuffin I think not.

I also got my teeth into the “Egg and Bacon” Kassler, Grunkohl and toast with sous-vide egg. ($17.50) Or “Cured, smoked pork, cabbage and slow-cooked poached egg”, in Layman’s terms. The cooked cabbage or Grunkohl looked like a strange sort of seaweed and carried an unusual bitter taste. The pork was a thick pillowy cut with intense smoky, salty flavours. And egg came cold (not sure if this was intentional) in a shot glass with a dash of olive oil to slug on top of whichever part of your breakfast you desired. While the quality of the Kassler and egg was hard to deny, the competing flavours came across as too powerful for my liking.

Birdman Eating fans will be pleased to know the coffee here is good too, and so is the staff. We were lavished with attentive service and crazy water-refills, so much so that I think I inadvertently drank a litre of water all while trying to finish my single glass. A very pleasant (and hydrating) experience overall. As many reviewers have noted, Backstreet feels more like a dinner place with its unusual savoury menu and wine-stacked shelves. I know I’ll be back for an evening soon.

Food: 4/5

Service: 5/5

Ambiance: 3/5

Where: 445 Queensberry St North Melbourne

When: Weekends 8am-4pm, Weekdays 7am-4pm

Cash Only

Vegetarian :)

Dine-in, take-away for milk-bar items

Contact: (03) 9663 5192

Remember the days when you could get everything at your Corner Store? All your groceries and a milkshake too? If you don’t remember then it’s probably because this distorted piece of nostalgia owes itself to something out of 1950’s America rather than anything you, (most likely) growing in Australia, have probably ever experienced. But for those with a whimsical sense of fake nostalgia, Grigons & Orr Corner Store might just give you a little thrill. Grigons is decked out like a Ye Olde milk-bar with shelves to the ceiling stacked with a mix of modern-day groceries and retro adorables. Atop the front cabinet are some tasty looking fresh muffins and slices while behind the glass you’ll find WizzFizz. I’m not sure if this is what most parents would call a “kid-friendly café”, but as a kid I know I would’ve been in sugary heaven.

Grigons & Or seemingly have very few tables unless you realise there’s a dining room upstairs; something not immediately apparent. The tables outside are subjected to a sloping footpath and some nasty road noise, while the ones inside downstairs are, well…there’re just three of them. It might matter to lazier readers how close to the cash register they’re seated as you’ll need to walk up to the counter to order. Glasses of water are also DIY. And another warning; try to have cash on you, otherwise you’ll need to go on a hike uphill to Errol Street, not recommended.  

Uncle Bennies ($14.50)

Once you’ve found appropriate seating and filled your wallets with cash you might notice that the menu is very large and quite “egg-centric”, (Dining Partner’s words, not mine) While large menus are rarely a good sign, G & O did manage to deliver on the goods; the food was great. Dining partner ordered the Uncle Bennies (Poached eggs on toast with hollandaise and choice of bacon/spinach/ham) for $14.50 and I asked for the Coddled Eggs (cooked with fresh herbs, creamed spinach and served with cheesy soldiers) at $12.50. Aside from being too small, the Uncle Bennies was picture-perfect with trimmed, high quality bacon and decent hollandaise. My coddled eggs were cooked nicely and did indeed contain plenty of herbs and creamed spinach, yet were a little basic in flavour. The cheesy soldiers were generous chunks of spongey bread with charred cheese topping. It did appear that they were also drizzled with hollandaise; exciting at first but too rich by the end. We washed our breakfasts down with cappuccinos and lattes which were excellent when asked for “strong”, but quite watery when made as standard.

If you can get a seat inside, Grigons and Or does have a certain ambiance; the music is tastefully low-volume for the small space and there’s a cute drink fridge with rarities like Cherry Cola and Dr Pepper all frosty and ready for you. It also pays to be open seven days a week; you’ve got to admire that commitment.

Coddled Eggs with Cheesy Soldiers ($12.50)

Food: 3.5/5

Service: 2/5

Ambiance: 2.5/5

Where:165 Rae Street, NorthFitzroy

When: Tues-Fri from 4pm, Weekends from midday

CC and EFTPOS

Veg and Vegan friendly

Dine-in

Contact: (03) 9489 6100

It’s no secret that Melbournites love their pubs, and amongst the leafy streets of North Fitzroy there’s nearly one on every corner. The Tramway Hotel is one of many historic watering holes in the area, with the building dating back to the 1960’s. The veneer hasn’t changed much but I would bet the food has. Their main deal is the Burger Bar, which while it may not seem very interesting, is far more innovative and high quality than that chewy old $25 parma you had the other night. Practically everything on Tramway’s burger menu has something special about it, whether it be fried haloumi or sriracha (spicy Thai sauce) mayo. For the Traditionalists there are steak sandwiches and classic burger combinations. While for our vego and vegan friends there are delicious options like Quinoa and Hummus or the Portabello Mushroom burgers. If the choice is all too much, and I can understand why, then rock up on a Tuesday and get the Tramway or Quinoa Burger for a mere $12. Then spend that money you saved on a beer; the range is impressive.

 As well as burgers, The Tramway does share plates, salads and a few select Mains too. I settled on the burger special; a Pulled Pork Sandwich ($18) which promised…slow cooked barbecue pork shoulder teased from the bone, topped with coleslaw, tomato, Spanish onion, Cos lettuce and aioli, served with a side of Napoleone apple cider chutney and chips. In the flesh (mind the pun) the burger proved itself worthy of its gorgeous description. While not mentioned above, the chips (wedges I’d say) were by far the best I’ve had in an age. “Bay and rosemary salt” might just be why. The cider chutney; sweet and aromatic with cinnamon set off the honey-smoked flavour of the pork, while a bitey, garlicky coleslaw completed the picture.

Pulled Pork Sandwich ($18)

My dining partner opted for the Lamb and Haloumi Burger ($18), so brace yourself for another mouth-watering description; Char-grilled lamb and burghul pattie, topped with grilled haloumi, almondnaise, lemon and mint yogurt, tomato, Cos lettuce, Spanish onion and chips. While it’s very hard to go wrong with grilled haloumi, this burger earns bonus points for blending the lamb with burghul for a really soft, wholesome texture. All burgers come in La Madre buns, although to be honest I’m not sure what the fuss is there. It is good to know however that they’re also available gluten free. Just make sure staff don’t clear your plates before you’re finished, they were a bit handsy with us and we lost some of those amazing rosemary wedges in the process.

Lamb and Haloumi Burger ($18)

Apart from really exciting burgers, The Tramway Hotel has a lot to offer in terms of atmosphere. While it is definitely a pub, it doesn’t have that dingy vibe. The large windows let in floods of light, which sheen from the polished floors and clean tables. At the time the music was upbeat, indie-folk, and the staff sort of are too. It’s a very friendly sort of place where you could bring a friendly friend and do friend things. Like play Monopoly or Scrabble, both of which are available at a coffee-table by the door.

Food: 4.5/5

Service: 3.5/5

Ambiance: 4/5

Where: Shop 10, 530 Collins St (enter via Little Collins St)

When: Mon-Fri Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner. Weekends: Private Functions

Credit Cards avail.

Dine-in

Vego :/ somewhat friendly

Contact: (03) 9614 4500

Mr. Mason, a new restaurant in the Collins Street Stock Exchange Building strives to give the Business Lunchers something ritzier than food court take-away. However one need not traipse any further than the Little Collins St Food court to get a hearty hot meal and wine to match. Mr. Mason seems as equally passionate about their wine and champagne as their food, and perhaps their label of “French Inspired” makes more sense when you read the drinks list than the menu. Dishes available are more Modern Australian than anything else; classic meat and veg and standard salad and chips available as sides as well as some interesting smaller plates to start.

While Mr. Mason is surely at an advantage in terms of accessibility to its business punters, it does have to make do with a fairly unsophisticated front at the entrance to the mall. While they do well to create a cosy hide-away from the bright lights of the food court, their clientele are constantly reminded of their location when they’re forced to exit the restaurant to use the public toilets across the corridor. Nevertheless the venue has pitched its market well, and will no doubt experience a good turnover with business lunches and after-work drinks.

Semolina Crusted Calamari with lemon and aioli ($12)

With a menu changing weekly, there’s always something new to try. We sampled the Semolina Crusted Calamari with lemon and aioli ($12), Charcuterie- homemade pate, terrine, rillets, bresaola, pickles, charred toast ($28) and the Roasted Lamb Rump, bacon lardons, braised lettuce, broad beans, potato dumplings ($32). The staff was very friendly, absent of any stuffiness and knowledgeable enough that I’d happily leave them to order for me. It was also a nice touch how our sparkling water kept flowing, rather than having to purchase a bottle to sit on the table.

While waiting for the food to arrive I took in the interiors which were dark and woody, with a very 70’s pebbled wall as a centre piece in the lounge area. While the carpet in the dining area wasn’t very sexy it did help to absorb the noise, something which the architecture seemed to consider with three segmented areas amongst the venue.

When the calamari arrived we were shocked by the generous portion of the “small plate”. The semolina batter was a nice barely-crunchy casing for the creamy meat, which was accompanied by a mild aioli and fresh watercress. The Charcuterie wasn’t as impressive as its predecessor, hampered by the quality of the bread, a bland pate and dried-out pickles. The terrine had a summery minty infusion and the caramelised onions were delicious but still not enough to redeem this dish for me.

Charcuterie- homemade pate, terrine, rillets, bresaola, pickles, charred toast ($28)

Our final installment was the lamb rump which while was a little rare for my tastes (I ordered it ‘medium’) was very satisfactory. A rich beef reduction generously enveloped the meat and tender baby vegetables. Perhaps most stunning were the potato dumplings; a little Eastern European influence done very well, the doughy discs slightly charred and crispy on the outside.

While the cuisine at Mr. Mason wasn’t particularly innovative, its hearty meat dishes are done nicely and would please many. It would be good to see an improvement in the quality of the cold meat dishes, perhaps a signature Chef dish to sample on the Charcuterie as well. I would definitely try a cocktail upon returning, with names like Grilled Pineapple Daiquiri and Daft Punk, it’s hard to say no.

Roasted Lamb Rump, bacon lardons, braised lettuce, broad beans, potato dumplings ($32)

Food: 3.5

Service: 4/5

Ambiance: 2/5

Lunchosaurus dined courtesy of Mr.Mason

Where: 506 Swan St Richmond

When: Mon-Fri 8am-4pm, Weekends 8.30am-4pm

Cash Only

Dine in/Some take-away

Vego friendly

Licensed

Contact: (03) 9428 7516

The “good room”

Friends of Mine in Richmond seems to be milking the best of both the café and restaurant worlds. Walking in off the street, the initial room is industrial-chic with polished concrete floors, wooden communal benches and retro factory lights. But step into the “good room” (that’s what the staff call it) and everything changes. White tablecloths, framed, glossy artwork on the walls and Jazz noodling away in the background. It has a dinner sort of vibe, yet they aren’t open for dinner, perhaps one day they will be.

Still reeling from the confusion of walking in to one café and feeling as though I’d sat down in another I had a look at the menu, which was quite large. The wait-staff were ready to take our orders right away and were still conveniently available after we’d been left to think it over a little longer. I eventually opted for the Piadina, which boasted pork and fennel sausage, tomato chutney, spinach and smoked scamorza ($14.50). The option of a side salad or chips was a little tacky but I opted for the salad and hoped for the best.

Pre-food I had a cappuccino ($3.50), which while wasn’t that artfully made (crèma was too white and foamy), was strong with a conventional bitter flavour, nothing complex. The food arrived on a cute wooden board; so hot right now, and without much wait-time. I hadn’t had smoked scamorza before but was very happy I then had the chance to, as it was delightfully creamy and stretchy. Unfortunately the sausage was disappointing; resembling something more like glorified luncheon meat, barely saved by the mild infusion of fennel. The spinach was few and far between which left me dying for some greenery. That bring me to the salad; fantastically dressed and with an abundance of herbs (Vietnamese mint, garden mint and coriander). Such a pity there wasn’t much more to it that leaves though; even some olives or a sprinkling of nuts would’ve made it a hit. My dining partner noted that it was more like a giant garnish than a salad. Yes, a delicious garnish, but a garnish none the less.

Pork and Fennel Sausage Piadina ($14.50)

I do feel bad having had such a poor experience with my lunch at Friends of Mine, I suppose if I’d had ordered one of the “larger plates” options my experience could have been more high quality. The men at the table next to me looked to be enjoying something far more delicious, although I never found out what that was. Next time I’m in the area I wouldn’t hesitate to stop by for a coffee and one of the tempting sweets in the glass cabinet. Mmmm… homemade lamingtons.

Food: 2.5/5

Service: 4/5

Ambiance: 4/5

Where: 273 Exhibition St Melbourne

When: Mon-Fri 7.30am-4pm, Weekends 8am-4pm

Contact: (03) 9663 7994

Payment: EFTPOS and CC

Dine in/Take-away

Vego :)

If Trunk Bar and Restaurant is too fancy pants for you, then you’ll dig its stingy little sibling; Trunk Diner. The philosophy behind the Diner is “food that people really love to eat”, meaning all that comfort stuff with none of the stuffiness. Even the Diner’s construction; a semi-permanent structure with plastic sheets for walls, appears to shake off the fancy frills of Trunk Restaurant just centimetres away. There’s a Mexican slant to the food and décor with a short quesadilla menu and a bucket of various hot sauces on each table. The cuisine even dabbles in Deep South with Buttermilk Fried Chicken Wings ($12) and Waffles ($11) but brings it all home with imaginative vego options and Melbournite favourites like pulled pork and Wagyu beef burgers.

The clientele are mostly city-workers, who appreciate the fast service and reasonable prices. On a weekday morning during breakfast peak hour, we got our meals quickly, only our second coffee orders lagged behind. That said, they didn’t charge us for them. The staff were great and looked like they were enjoying themselves too, a good indicator of a quality place here to stay.

Scrambled eggs with bacon ($11)

So for breakfast we had classic, scrambled eggs with bacon ($11) and the Gluten-free Brookfarm muesli with poached pears and vanilla yoghurt ($7). The eggs were creamy and hot and the bacon had char-grilled stripes and plenty of fleshy parts (less fatty ones). Serves weren’t gut-busting weekend breaky-style but they weren’t too small either. Generally I got the impression that all the meals were practical and simple. The muesli was more than I could finish, and when I had eaten all of the yogurt on top I was offered more by the waiter. I would say that because the poached pears, yogurt and muesli were all sweetened, it was bordering on sickly sweet. A tangy yogurt or less sugary poached fruit would’ve perfected it.

Trunk Diner serves St Ali coffee, which is alright, but they use large cups so my cappuccino was milkier than I liked. While the coffee is a standard $3.50 the prices on the menu are cheap enough for regulars to eat here everyday and with far better quality than the cafés at the bottom of anyone’s office buildings. I don’t think much of the Diner’s plastic sheet walls, but they do have plenty of heaters and I’m sure it would be great in the height of summer. Next time I need an affordable feed with a smile I’ll be at Trunk Diner.

Brookfarm muesli with poached pears and vanilla yoghurt ($7)

Food: 3/5

Service: 5/5

Ambiance: 2.5/5

Where: 351 Lygon Street Brunswick East

When: Tues-Fri 8am-4pm, Weekends 8.30am-5pm

Contact: (03) 9416 3101

Payment: CC and EFTPOS

Vego friendly

I must say, my pretentious-radar went a bit psycho when I arrived at L’atelier de Monsieur Truffe the other morning. It doesn’t help that the entrance is completely unsigned, with only a closed red door to show the way. It feels very weird to go up to said door, and open it when there isn’t a glimpse of opening hours, menus or in fact anything to suggest that the public would be welcome there. Once the door drama is over you may find yourself standing rather vulnerably in the entrance of a spacious warehouse café, packed with people who’re no doubt feeling quite smug that they have figured out the secret entry long before you have.

For a large café, there isn’t much seating to speak of, even very early in the morning. My breakfast buddy and I were stranded on some bar stools the wrong height for the bench until we eventually snuck onto a communal table. So what’s to eat then? Well you’ll find the menu not unlike that of Auction Rooms in North Melbourne, very innovative and yes, on the pretentious side. Yet it all depends what sort of breakfast you’re into; if you just want a feed of bacon and eggs then you won’t be impressed. However, if you’re looking for something that you haven’t tried before, something a little bit exciting, then Monsieur Truffe is a great choice. Feeling a little adverse to high-end frills such as “dust and gels” promised with the carrot cake, I settled on the hotcakes, while Breakfast Bud ordered the Croque Monsieur. The latter was a disappointment according to Bud, because it didn’t have that strong, mustardy kick and cheese smother he feels are essential to the dish. I partially agree, because it didn’t have any mustard and the cheese was light-on, however I think the quality of the ingredients was great which made it acceptable, the charred patches of cheese were good too. Conclusively I wouldn’t order it again, as it was more over-priced toastie than Croque Monsieur. Unfortunately I forgot to photograph the menu so I don’t have the prices for you, very sorry about that. I can tell you however that they’re of medium to high café standard. The Croque Monsieur wasn’t very big, so it felt a little stingy.

Croque Monsieur

Moving on, the Hotcakes with fresh berries, lemon syrup and almond and hazelnut praline, did feel price appropriate (at about $15) in terms of quantity and quality. The pancakes were fluffy perfection and thankfully not too sickly sweet, while the caramel-fried almonds added that extra special something that I would definitely come back for. It was nice to have a hotcake breakfast that didn’t really feel like a dessert, and was hearty as well.

Hotcakes with fresh berries, lemon syrup and almond and hazelnut praline (about $15)

Our coffees were well structured but lacked kick, which I can only blame on the “Coffee of the Day” which was Café de Cuba. Fortunately that doesn’t seem to be a permanent fixture. If I hadn’t just indulged myself with hotcakes I would’ve loved to have tried the house-made pastries (while their bread is courtesy of Noisette). There is also a range of chocolate paraphernalia for sale including hot chocolate mixes, posters and books. It did feel a little unfriendly sitting at the table nearest to all these wares though, like I was eating in a gift shop. The ambiance didn’t do much for me, in any part of the room actually. This was mainly due to it feeling like a workshop, which I’m sure is part of the appeal to many people. The staff were alright, although not particularly efficient or helpful.

More stuff you can buy…

Food: 3.5/5

Service: 2.5/5

Ambiance: 2/5